Sunday, November 18, 2012

Back in the Driver's Seat. (My own!)

When I last posted, it was over a year ago, I had just bid farewell to the Pontiac GTP (#2) and welcomed the replacement 2011 Ford Mustang GT as the wife's daily driver, and the "off-season" for dry pavement performance was just drawing to a close.



Since then I have transitioned from the role as a forum administrator over at www.mustangcanada.com (October 2011) to do some work with the Calgary based Fast Fords project (until August 2012) and when I gave my newly formed article archive a review, I was surprised to discover that I had nearly 200 separate works. Prior to Summer 2012 all of these individual pieces were only posted to somewhat unstable web forums, I had kept no formal backup or hard copy, so I made a serious change there. As I develop the time and space to do so, everything possible will be posted on a stable and permanent home on the internet, so stay tuned for that.

In the mean time I have been timelining everything on Facebook under the Grand Touring Concepts page located here: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Grand-Touring-Concepts/207098895986212 Perhaps drop in and take a look around, I am pretty impressed when I look back at all the stuff we've collectively accomplished in that tiny 440 square foot shop, and am working hard to share those memories with anyone interested.

The SS&S youtube channel has been a bit dormant, aside from some basic edit drag videos from the 2012 racing season at Castrol Raceway.

Ongoing projects to keep an eye out for are:

 Jesse's 1994 Mustang GT build: 
Equipped with only some junkyard GT40P cylinder heads and a Chinese intake manifold we were able to scoot this "Yellow Bastard" from low 14's into the 13.5 range. At the close of the season Jesse's tired, high mileage 5.0L Windsor engine developed some running issues that could be as minor as a head gasket issue or much more serious. More updates as that unfolds.


Shawn's 1993 Lada Niva project:
The first incursion into the foreign market cars, we've procured a $500 Lada Niva in need of some work. We will be making it trail ready and seeing what this old Russian SUV can do in Shawn's capable hands.








There is always something ongoing or in the works and I'll do my best to keep the updates coming!

Monday, September 26, 2011

Looks Good on Paper & NO LONGER Living with a Pontiac!

At a final odometer reading of 196,000kms (121,739 Miles) we are finally done with this 2003 Pontiac GTP. I wish I could give it a teary-eyed send off with platitudes like; “We’ll miss it so much” but in reality we’ll never forget this car, not because it was an unforgettable vehicle, but because it was so terrible.

Since the last update made on December 7th, things have not been smooth sailing for the GTP. The replacement fuel injector did cure the driveability issue and returned the fuel economy to normal but other problems cropped up over the spring and summer. More electrical problems.

The heater fan burning out it’s bearings is kind of a wear and tear item, but given the mileage I don’t believe it is reasonable to expect to need to replace that part so soon, at least compared to other vehicles we’ve owned. I know from “the Black Car” our previous 2002 GTP, that the cowl appears to drain water back into the fan which causes rust and early failure, I seem to recall a replacement part cost of $130 or so and a few hours under the dash for installation.

Another interesting puzzle to solve had to do with the ignition key and the park interlock. At times the ignition would refuse to release the key, usually when you were in a hurry to be somewhere. I scoured the internet for some insight about this condition and found that this is a very common problem for the W-body and other GM vehicles. The popular suggested fix is to disassemble the center console of the car then to inspect and repair two tiny connectors which break off the Park position sensor. When this harness is damaged the car apparently believes that it is not yet in Park and will not release the key. Armed with this knowledge I spent and evening working not to damage the brittle interior plastics and remedy the issue. However once I inspected the harness it appeared as new and undamaged. Some basic work with a volt-meter found no faults so I cleaned all of the connections with some spray cleaner and did reassembly.

The problem was now gone, however the Brake pedal shift interlock was now somehow broken. The car would allow movement of the shifter from Park without depressing the brake pedal. This is a minor safety issue which must have been caused by tinkering with the harness in the console, I left it alone and a few days later the problem cured itself, the shift interlock was restored.

Ever since Fall of 2010 we had been trying to keep this car running for minimal amounts of money pending a plan to trade in Summer or Fall of 2011. Normally I do not hesitate to buy part and properly fix things as required, but since the Canadian Book Value of even a pristine 2003 Pontiac GTP had fallen to basement levels, (At 196K mileage $3,000 Tops) any further money invested would soon result in negative equity when it came time to trade or sell. Mechanically and structurally the car was solid, however it was an electrical basketcase. This negative equity was something we were especially afraid of should something like a transmission fail, a legitimate concern based off of other owner’s experiences, $2500 and the down time would simply be unacceptable.

After finishing up our summer travelling we really set down to find a replacement for this car, lots of options had been discussed and finally we settled on looking for a gently used example of a 2011 Mustang GT.

There were a number of reasons on selecting the Ford Mustang.

It really seems counter-intuitive that a Pony car is a good idea for a daily commuter, but the Mustang is a solid value purchase. I personally have two and despite one being from 1995, it’s only required a new distributer and maintenance items to keep running smoothly. I’ve changed a great deal of parts on that car in the pursuit of higher performance and suffered subsequent breakages, but discounting “self-inflicted” failures, it’s been great. Parts are commonly available for nearly any Mustang built since Job 1 1964, either OEM or performance upgrades, low cost also makes things quite attractive. There is something to be said for the ease of driveline repair and maintenance of a conventional Front Engine, Rear Drive setup too.

All that said we began searching at the start of the summer very tentatively and last weekend we found a very suitable car. After driving for over an hour to a small dealership in Olds, Alberta, we were rewarded with a fair deal on our trade (given the market value, 5.5% of its 2003 original MSRP) and were finally into a replacement car.

A 2011 Mustang GT, 5.0L automatic with a cloth convertible top, well appointed and in great condition. Equipped with the new 5.0L engine and 6 speed automatic transmission, it also exceeded the best ever fuel economy of the GTP on the first highway outing. All this comes with more options, higher curb weight, a V8, and an additional 172 horsepower, simply a matter of technology marching onwards. Considering all of this, the Mustang should make a fine replacement of long-term daily driver for the wife, and be fairly cost-effective at the same time.

As a final parting shot at the Pontiac, at the very least Ford installed heated seats for both front occupants and not just the driver like the GTP offered…

It’s been quite an adventure with this GTP, both of us are relieved to see it gone, and if you see a Silver GTP cross your local auction block, consider this a fair and friendly warning of what to expect. At least the fuel gauge is always full…

Closing Stats on the outgoing GTP

2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP

Date of Purchase: August 2007
Date of Trade: September 2011

Mileage on Purchase: ~90,000km
Mileage at Sale: 196,000km
Value Depreciation since purchase: 8.5 cents per KM

Performance: 240 HP & 280 TQ
0-60 MPH: 6.6 seconds
¼ Mile: 15.9 seconds at Castrol Raceway

MFG Recalls: 1 – Engine Compartment Fire

Average US MPG: 22.3
Best Reported US MPG: 27.5
Average Fuel Cost: 13 cents/km (Premium Fuel Required)

Vehicle Breakages, Deficiencies, and Maintenance during ownership:

Powertrain:
Cracked Thermostat Housing
Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets
Oil Pan Gasket leak
Transmission Pan Gasket leak
1 Faulty Fuel Injector
Spark Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
11 Sythetic Oil Changes

Chassis & Suspension:
Replace Brake Pads
Replace Tires
1 Wheel bearing/ABS Sensor
Inner wheel housing liner collapsed


Interior & Electrical:
Onstar System Inoperative due to outdated analog hardware
Fuel Level Sender Defective
6 Headlight bulbs
5 Foglamp Bulbs
Defective Park Interlock switch
Defective Stereo/Clock display
Replace Windshield washer pump
Defective Heater Fan
Defective HVAC Fan Controller
Broken Interior Trim & Heated Seat switch
4 Burned out gauge cluster lamps
Cracked & Brittle weatherstripping

Read the Entire Living with a Pontiac Series:

Looks Good on Paper:

UPDATE 1 –

UPDATE 2 –

Back in the Grind - Looks Good on Paper & Living with a Pontiac

Friday, April 15, 2011

Factory Stock Mustang ¼ mile Test Times

As compiled from online sources & magazine tests. (Updated 16 Jan 2013)

Fastest to Slowest

11 Second Range

2013 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - 11.25 @ 127.9 MPH (SVTP Forum)
2010 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - 11.951 (MM&FF Oct '09)

12 Second Range

2011 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - 12.0 (MM&FF Oct '10)

2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 – 12.257 (MM&FF Aug '06)

2011 Ford Mustang Boss 302 - 12.3
2011 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - 12.35

2003 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 12.4
2008 Ford Mustang Roush 427R (Auto) - 12.44 (MM&FF May '08)

2006 Ford Mustang Roush Stage 3 -12.63 (MM&FF Nov '10)
2011 Ford Mustang GT - 12.67 (Dragtimes)
2003 Ford Mustang Roush Stage 3 - 12.67 (MM&FF Apr '03)
2005 Saleen SC281 - 12.676 (Dragtimes)

2011 Ford Mustang GT (Auto) - 12.73 (Dragtimes)

2000 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra R - 12.88 (Dragtimes)

2001 Ford Mustang Roush Stage 3 - 12.9
2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 Convertible - 12.9

13 Second Range

2010 Ford Mustang Roush 427R - 13.1
2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1 (5 Speed) - 13.15 (MM&FF Oct '03)

2001 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 13.34 (MM&FF Sep '01)

2005 Mustang GT – Manual – 13.5
2010 Mustang GT - 13.5

1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 - 13.6
2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT - 13.6

1995 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra R - 13.67

2008 Ford Mustang Bullitt - 13.7
2011 Ford Mustang 3.7L V6 – 13.7

1971 Ford Mustang Boss 351 - 13.8
2005 Ford Mustang GT Convertible - 13.8
1969 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 - 13.87
2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1 (Auto) - 13.88

1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 - 13.9
1999 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 13.9
2007 Ford Mustang Shelby GT-H - 13.9

14 Second Range

1994 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 14.0
1996 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 14.0
1998 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 14.0

2001 Ford Mustang Bullitt GT - 14.1
1999 Ford Mustang GT - 14.1

1987 Ford Mustang GT - 14.4

1993 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra - 14.5

1989 Ford Mustang GT - 14.8
1992 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 - 14.8

1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 - 14.9
1985 Ford Mustang GT - 14.9
1990 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 - 14.9
1994 Ford Mustang GT - 14.9

15 Second Range

1988 Ford Mustang GT - 15.0
1998 Ford Mustang GT - 15.04 (Dragtimes)

2005 Ford Mustang V6 - 15.3

1967 Ford Mustang (390ci V8 w/4spd) - 15.6
1991 Ford Mustang GT - 15.6

1964 Ford Mustang (289ci V8 w/4spd) - 15.7

1984 Ford Mustang SVO - 15.8

16 Second Range

1993 Ford Mustang GT (auto) - 16.1

1973 Ford Mustang 351ci - 16.3

1999 Ford Mustang Convertible V6 - 16.5

17 Second Range

1981 Ford Mustang M81 McLaren (2.3L Turbo) - 17.3
1995 Ford Mustang V6 - 17.3

1975 Ford Mustang II (302ci V8 Auto) - 17.5

1977 Ford Mustang II 302ci - 17.7

1966 Ford Mustang (289ci  Auto) - 17.9

18 Second Range

1980 Ford Mustang Cobra (255ci) - 18.4

1980 Ford Mustang (255ci) - 18.5

1974 Ford Mustang II 4sp - 18.8

19 Second Range

1974 Ford Mustang II 2.3L Auto - 19.4

Know of a faster time? Link it in the comments section and I'll post it in.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Darren’s New Years Pocket Bike Drags 2010 Race Results

Something that may become a bit of a tradition around my home is perhaps the most moronic of party games; Pocket Bike Drag Racing. It’s a really simple sport, you need a pocket bike, a drag strip, some improvised safety equipment, and a handful of foolish drivers.

This year at the inaugural event we fought various breakdowns, crashes, and cold weather to make 4 somewhat clean passes.

The setup was pretty good, I had rules drafted, an outdoor heater to combat the -16*C temperatures, and a darkened, ice-covered 150 meter drag strip. The rules of the event were posted on this whiteboard for any authorities that may happen to drop in as proof of what a legit series we were running.

For the record the rules were as follows:

  • Fastest ET (Elapsed Time) Wins
  • A crash is a DNF
  • Run Whatca Brung!
  • No BS, NOS, (Full Throttles are OK!) or Slicks!

Race Conduct:
    1. Drive to Start Line, (This counts as your familiarization portion) Raise Hand when staged.
    2. Starter will drop hands “Pinks” Style
    3. GO! – (stupid)
    4. Race ends at line.

Winner gets a Trofey!

Since not everyone has a junker Chinese pocket Bike lying around we elected to use mine. This pristine, low-mileage example has seen some hard use at the hands of various riders and generally will keep on ticking.


This brought the race down to two basic items, who could manage to hold the throttle open the longest, and who was the least fat, or so we thought. The first part was made fairly tricky due to the icy conditions found in my back alley *ahem* track, and the unforeseen added an unusual challenge.

During the test & tune sessions the pocket bike performed very well, but after extended periods of idling the little 49cc 2-stroke began to grow impatient. 

Racers waiting for their turn.
 

First off we gave Hotwheels the buzzing deathtrap and he blistered across the line with an amazing run; however the timing device failed due to the cold and he had to run again. This time the reed type carburetor was having fits and he limped it through the traps with a 35.0 second pass and average speed of 15.44 km/h.

Next up was A_Gorman, our resident Pocket Bike Noob, who continually tossed the chain, stalled out, or ate snow trying to bust a sweet drift on his starting run. After 6 failed attempts, was relegated to the back of the running order before he smashed the bike completely.

At this time the girls became bored with the repair sessions and retired from the event for refreshments indoors, leaving us to hoon about in the cold.

Following the haphazard hijinks of Gorman, Landyacht made his attempts, dealing with a stall-out just off the line, he managed a quick re-stage but was hampered by frosted over eyewear. Boldly completing the run as a near-blind man Landyacht racked up a 31.5 second pass at 17.14 km/h.

I hopped on and clicked off a Stig-esque exhibition run, having the most ride-time it would be unfitting for me to win my own event, so before setting off I agreed that my time wouldn’t count in the competition.

My pass was easy, once I found the sweet-spot in the throttle to keep the ripping 1 cylinder from flooding out. A better cold weather tune-up would certainly have helped all racers, but my front tire hit the traps with a 24.0 second pass and 22.5 km/h average.

Finally it came time to give Captain smash-the-bike his retry, for the hell of it I told him about the throttle secret and wanted to see what he could do. A_Gorman made a nearly flawless pass of 25.5 seconds which netted a 21.17 km/h speed average. This final run netted Gorman the victory and seen him awarded the sweet trophy.


Hotwheels has sworn to take the next event, as his untimed pass would have made Gorman look like he was sitting still. Stay tuned as the next special event will likely occur Canada Day, by which time I will have found some more junk to fashion into a trophy.

Final standings of the 150m New Years Drag Race 2010:
  1. Darren5.0L - 24.0 seconds at 22.50 km/h
  2. A_Gorman – 25.5 seconds at 21.17 km/h
  3. Landyacht – 31.5 seconds at 17.14 km/h (Blind)
  4. Hotwheels – 35.0 seconds at 15.44 km/h (Hard Luck Award)

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Winter Driving a High Performance Vehicle

Darren5.0L's 2003 SVT Lightning in winter trim.
“How to you drive THAT in the winter?” Is a question I, and many of my friends are frequently asked. In the case of me, it’s a modified 2003 SVT Lightning pickup truck with over 400 horsepower at the flywheel, in the case of my friends one of them is a 500+ BHP Mercury Marauder, two of them run brand new 2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0L, another employs his 1995 Ford Mustang GT, and finally one with a Dodge SRT-8 Magnum.

None of us have made huge investments in new body panels over the last number of years nor have we made a habit of crashing about in our performance vehicles. In fact none of this should be a big thing to boast about.

L to R: 2006 Mustang GT, 2003 Supercharged Mercury Marauder, 2003 SVT Lightning
The reason that this isn’t a big deal, is because high performance cars are just like any other car when it comes down to basic pieces, except they have “all that horsepower”. A common misconception is that a performance vehicle comes equipped with an ON/OFF switch in place of a throttle, either you are at idle, or shredding snow & ice with hundreds of horsepower. This is not the case, any performance vehicle can have the engines output to the tires modulated by using the throttle, and in many cars the light throttle condition produces surprisingly small amounts of easily manageable power.

Proper equipment is an often overlooked component to winter driving in any vehicle, but is especially important should you choose to run a performance car. Performance cars come equipped with performance tires, almost always suited specifically for warm weather wet & dry traction, by contrast this makes them completely unsuited for winter operations.

A_Gorman's 2011 Mustang GT 5.0L
You may find your vehicle comes with a tire warning sticker or section of the manual that recommends against winter operation of the factory equipped tires. The solution is simply to purchase and install a dedicated winter tire. A second set of wheels can easily be found and used exclusively as the winter set to avoid hassles.

In a rear wheel drive application some vehicles will tend to feel a little “light” in the back end. This can be easily remedied with the installation of ballast such as sandbags until your preferred handling characteristics are achieved.

Performance cars, once suitably equipped, are surprisingly easy to drive and handle in winter conditions. They will be as capable as nearly any other non-4X4 on the roads and in many cases will feature many advanced driver aids to ease your trip. Traction control, Anti-lock brakes, and Stability management are quite refined presently and can make for a very tame journey through winter conditions.

Most people who have tried winter driving with a performance vehicle and given up have often never bothered to properly equip their car, subsequently the failed experiment is usually blamed upon the capabilities of it.

In closing, it can be done, and it isn’t that big of a deal.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

2010 Mustang GT 2200km Test Drive

07-28-2009

Test Drive is a little bit of a stretch I suppose, more like rental that I treated as a test drive. During my recent trip home to the Atlantic Provinces, I resolved that renting an interesting car might make the experience a little more interesting. A bit of time on the interweb offered the 2010 Mustang Coupe (V6) from Budget rentals in the Halifax Airport.

Upon arrival and check-in with Budget I was pleasantly surprised when the clerk gave me the keys to a Red 2010 Mustang GT, as a V6 was unavailable at that time, game on, my trip just got more interesting. At the fore-front of my mind was the fact that this new car has a love or hate relationship with many online Mustang enthusiasts, and this would be a golden opportunity to compare, without the pressure of trying to be popular in the car magazines.

For the short list, the vehicle was as tested a 2010 Mustang GT with the only option being a 5-speed Automatic Transmission. List price for this car was $38,429.00 CDN

Link to Virtual window sticker below: (Adobe Document)
http://services.forddirect.fordvehicles.com/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1ZVBP8CH1A5118337

Fun fact, if you take the above link and paste your own VIN in place you can see your virtual window sticker if your car is fairly new, pre-05 need not apply…

For anyone who doesn’t wish to hear me prattle onwards and see lots of photos, my overall assessment of the car is Positive. It is a great car and I give it high recommend, however I do not personally prefer this car over the previous 05-09 models, and I’ll relay that as the article progresses.

As first interaction most people have is with the exterior, I shall cover it first.
This is a really tough call, personally I enjoy the look of the 2005-09 cars much more but you just can’t ignore the work Ford has put into the new model. Things like the smaller grille area and headlights have grown on me, as have the little “fairings” that protrude from the lower front valence. The extra styling found in the fenders is quite pleasing to the eye and no one could ignore the massive “power bulge” the molded in to the hood, fantastic! It all comes together very well in person, that is until you reach the back of the vehicle, we all knew this would be a sore point didn’t we?





I believe it was Motor Trend who drew attention to the trunk lid not fitting well, and in person I see what they mean, but not without some explanation. If you were to walk a semi-circle around the back of this car, taking only 10 steps, things would look just fine for 8 of those 10. However some where near the middle you find an angle that makes it all look very wrong, and it’s mostly an optical illusion but the tail lights appear flat against the concave trunk lid, making it seem off.



It does in actuality fit well and keeps your luggage dry but you won’t be impressed if you push in on the bottom trunk edge, very flexible…



Another couple of nagging bits is the huge Texas belt-buckle sized emblem, its cheap plastic and makes awful crunching sounds if you push on it, I think the two piece design allows dust between the layers causing this. The other is the rear mounted “shorty” antenna it’s in a great place, but looks exceptionally poorly crafted.



Finally is the rear spoiler, it seems alright until you pop the trunk then the thin, unsupported tips become apparent. I think these guys might be susceptible to damage if used as a handle to close the trunk, like I caught a few family and friends doing.



I may very much like my Retro Mustang, but this new car gets a solid 9/10 in the exterior styling department, this car truly does look like the next evolution of the Mustang GT, that is, aside from the rear end…

I quick thought is the Wife described the rear as looking like an economy car, and from the right angle I think she may be on to something…

Logic would say move to the interior next, but let’s cover the dynamic parts first, it’s certainly more fun.



Here I’ll come right out and say good work, when you consider that this power plant is a carry-over, it is brilliant. It makes all of the right sounds all of the time, the 2010’s mufflers sound very good. Anyone who isn’t a Borla Stinger fan would be appeased with a simple High-flow catted mid-pipe swap, the tone is perfect just could use a little more volume, but it is damn close.



The tube that channels intake noise to the interior, while first assessed as a useless bobble, worked awesome, somehow they managed to transmit the growl of the exhaust to the front of the car. It’s silent at cruise but really encourages more throttle once you begin to open the taps, I’m quite impressed.



The 6,500 rpm shift point is noted as well and the Automatic transmission is quick. It may not have that neck snapping authority but it is perhaps the fastest shifting production Ford I’ve been in.


Power bulge!




The Automatic did add one neat element, disable the TCS, stomp both pedals and those Pirelli’s turn to glorious smoke, got to love paying for the extra rental insurances…

Fuel economy? On the highway it could easily see 30 MPG, but after 2200km of all types of driving we averaged 22.2MPG. (10L/100km)

The car handled the rough and narrow roads of rural Nova Scotia and New Brunswick with confidence and poise, but I did notice one thing. Compared to my old 84 Mustang with its terrible 2.3L engine, the 2010 was clearly much faster and handled better through the roads of my teenage years. But it was markedly bigger, massive actually, especially when sharing a shoulder-less two lane with an oncoming logging truck. On the flip side though, with the exhaust rumbling at part throttle load it did have presence, and people did take notice.



The car was excellently balanced and it took a fair bit of careless throttle over rough roads to get the rear to step out of line, being a rental I was merciless. I was only able to willfully bottom out the suspension once, a non-transitioned section where 2” depth (x15ft long) of pavement had been removed; 50km/h did overcome (BANG!) the shock absorbers. Under normal conditions a reasonable person would have dropped their speed to a crawl, and never experienced this condition.

Wrapping things up with an exploration the interior draws this extended road test to a close. I actually took down a list of items about the interior that caught my interest or ire so I’d remember them all.



Overall the new interior takes some getting used to over the older layout, but it does make the Mustang seem more polished, like the interior of a European Import. And I think that is what Ford was going for, not that I like it, but it will likely be quite popular and that is what makes money these days.

The next few items will appear very nit-picky to most people but coming from a 2009 and hopping into a 2010 you’d probably have the same changes jump out at you. And honestly we are comparing Mustangs to Mustangs here, it’s the subtle differences that make a car unique.

The seats are familiar Leather from the GT500 and Bullitt of previous years and feature a nice contrasting “baseball” stitching, they were good before and still hold true.

Finally since 2004 we see the return of an interior power trunk release, it’s kind of just bundled in with the TCS/Hazards next to the shifter, but it’s great to see it again. I’d have it moved inside the dash or armrest but that’s just me.


The shifter (auto) is a decent design and is fairly ergonomic; the O/D off button is a little too far down and doesn’t have that easy tap of the thumb use. I am however told the 05-09 shifters were worse so I’ll call it an improvement.

The radio system is much more integrated, and the Sirius functions like it belongs there, the original Shaker systems seemed a little “made to work” But the Sirius was much more finicky with signal, could be a geographical thing, or perhaps it is something else.

The gauge faces are bold and bright, offering a modern appearance, sadly the needles are too thick and will totally obscure the tach/speedo markings often giving an imprecise +/- 5 km/h visual glance.




Gone are the two separate stalks on the steering column and instead is a single multi-function switch on the left side, like the old pre-05 cars. My only annoyance was just having gotten used to the 2009’s two stick arrangement; I swatted the ignition key ineffectively looking for the wipers once.

Speaking of wipers, they are the spring-less design from the Gt500 and they got a lot of use during my trip, mainly due to the 8 (of 10) days of rain. Further due to the power bulge cowl had a habit of covering the outside of the windshield in humid fog, I hope that is just another geographical thing.


While I did remark at the loss of the two center round HVAC vents, the new design offers a covered high mount 12V plug and a neat little shelf on the dash pad that might as well have “Radar Detector Here” stenciled on it. That I thought was a keen idea.


Moving down the center stack, I was immediately put off by all of the new buttons, there is just too many of them, which made quick reference and adjustment annoying. I’m sure this is what the modern Mustang owner wants, but is it really necessary to require operation of the blend door by cycling 1 button multiple times through all positions until the LED’s on the diagram match with what you wanted? HVAC should be nothing more that 3 large rotary knobs and 3 buttons Rear Defrost, Re-Circulate, and A/C. I noted we had heated seats in this model, they seemed to have two positions OFF and Ouch, not that you use them much hidden behind the shifter and all.

This model features Microsoft Sync, anyone not familiar with the system is encouraged to look of google for a quick primer, but it was fairly easy to make my Blackberry work as a hands free via the vehicle sound system. It appears to have a number of great options that I didn’t really explore with a rental. Aside from being a little choosy with its voice commands, it worked quite well.

The console is probably one of my final and larger gripes, it looks very nice and has a cover for the two cup holders I despise from the 05-09’s, but it looks like something that will break one day. Fox owners know what I’m on about here…ashtray cover style…




The armrest is gone, you now have a flat console I don’t like it, period. The latch for the console storage is now lockable, which is fantastic but the spring opening button simply doesn’t work properly, an un-needed driving distraction. My test car started out with only 6000km’s and it already had scratches to the chrome applique, this doesn’t speak well for a lifetime ownership car. The storage bin does have 12V point, AUX jack, and a USB port but overall capacity seems quite reduced.




Also noted was the trip computer’s display was in blue rather than Ford’s nearly trademark green LED, many popular features remain but the loss of the fuel consumed heading was lamented. The trip computer and its menus, are manipulated with three buttons now located under the headlight switch, the “mood lighting” control is now buried in the digital menus making on the fly adjustments cumbersome. Another quick note about the mood lighting feature, is the lighted sill covers that greet you when the door is opened, nice touch but my example showed signs of moisture in the lettering, surely not a good sign.



Since you suffered this thing out so far I’ll sum up, overall this is a great Mustang, it has lots of great features and wide appeal. While this would not be my first choice in a Mustang to purchase, it does carry the brand well, I prefer a simpler more muscle oriented interior but creature comforts do sell cars. Reviewing my observations a keen observer will note most of my concerns are a number of small non-important issues that really don’t matter. That should be the main thing to take from this review, there are no serious problems with the car, and although the rear end may be ugly, it is a car worthy of the Mustang name.




It was a blast to run this thing through the twists, turns and straights of all 2200km I covered in NS and NB, I honestly can’t think of a better rental car to do it with…

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Back in the Grind : Looks Good on Paper & Living with a Pontiac

It’s been a week or so of steady driving since the last update, and I am pleased observe a successful repair of the Pontiac’s buggered fuel injector. We’ve seen a general return to normal with the GTP’s daily fuel consumption, and despite experiencing -20*C driving temperatures we are seeing about 23 US MPG under mixed driving conditions.

Gone are the stumble and rough idle conditions, so I think I’ve got this issue solved. I removed the #3 spark plug for inspection, and it has returned to burning normally, which is relief from the blackened soot that was scraped away each time before. This is good to note as I was quite worried that there was a spark related issue in conjunction with the fuel injector. The PCM is clear of codes and with the spark plug clean I’m ready to turn my attentions back to other projects.

Until the next interesting foible presents itself, take a look at the entire series if you haven’t already done so:

Thursday, December 2, 2010

UPDATE 2: Looks Good on Paper & Living with a Pontiac

They say no good deed goes unpunished, and the same applies for when installing new parts on this car.

On the demand of the OBD 2 system, the GTP recently received a brand new IAT sensor, the install was completely painless, taking mere minutes to finish the swap. With the check engine light cleared, I was hopeful we’d seen the end of our recent spate of fuel economy and drive-ability problems.

However, the very next night the car became totally un-drivable. While the Wife was finishing up her work commute, the engine began to stumble, and over last few kilometers home, it took to frantically flashing the CEL.
Since having a check engine light occur so often, we’d used up all of our “freebie” code readings at the dealer, and the service department was getting as sick of seeing the silver Pontiac roll in as we were of owning it. Knowing the dealer was 2 weeks behind schedule and that the vehicle wasn’t really driveable with a flashing CEL, I was left with some decisions to make.

The least expensive course of action was to purchase a code reader, pull the codes myself and make repairs as required. I have been loathe to purchase a OBD 2 code reader until now, because any of the other Ford vehicles I have in the household can easily be serviced with the Diablosport Predators I use for performance tuning. The 1995 GTS is an OBD 1 system and can be read with a simple paperclip jumper, so the GTP would be the only use I have for this somewhat costly tool. Reluctantly, I ran out that evening and obtained a scan tool.

With my $150 code reader in hand I was surprised to learn the #3 Injector circuit was stuck open and reported a “Generic Misfire”. Basically the injector had been stuck at 100% duty cycle under all throttle conditions, essentially flooding the cylinder with fuel. Chances were, this was the source of our poor fuel economy, misfire, and general engine related issues.

Next morning the GTP remained sullenly in the garage awaiting parts and I drove the Wife to and from work. Once parts dealers opened I began to price and source a single replacement injector.

There were two main options, new $255 each from NAPA or a refurbished unit from the same at $50. Checking the dealer for price comparison showed a $130 list for the refurbished injector. The easy choice was made to run with a refurb NAPA piece and return the old injector for our $10 core charge.

If I had the time, I'd have ordered a full set of 6 from ZZ Performance for less than one from the dealership. But seeing as I had to drive the wife to work once already, I elected to hurry up and get it fixed.
I had briefly considered and quickly discarded the idea of using a junkyard part for two reasons; firstly, a used injector may suffer from less than ideal fuel flow issues, and secondly, finding a GTP in the wreckers locally isn’t a very common thing.

So that evening the replacement was installed without issue. I am pleased to note the #3 injector is quite easy to access, if it were on the firewall side of the engine, I’m sure I’d be singing a much different tune. I reset the codes, started the car, and gladly observed smooth running with no return CEL. After a short road test, the on-board trip computer was reporting 31-32 MPG on the highway, quite good considering ambient temperatures and ethanol blended fuel.

I returned the car to daily driver duty and subsequently observed a large increase in fuel economy, regaining nearly 5 MPG in mixed City & Highway driving. So far there have been no new or returning engine related issues. As a footnote, this car has 170,000km’s or about 105,000 miles; I should sit down and write a laundry list of problems and breakages for easy reference.

After doing a recent oil change, next topic might be a discussion about Oil life monitors and my observations on that system.


Read the Entire Living with a Pontiac Series:

Looks Good on Paper:

UPDATE 1 –

UPDATE 2 –

Back in the Grind - Looks Good on Paper & Living with a Pontiac

Sunday, November 28, 2010

A case for Winter Tires

If you’re in the Northern hemisphere, it’s currently winter, generally cold, unpleasant, and sub-freezing temperatures. The world however, won’t come to grinding halt just for the sake of comfort, with that, most people get to experience winter travel.

Ice and snow can make something as mundane as a casual walk, into a tricky and dangerous endeavor, especially when you aren’t wearing the proper footwear. By extension, driving your car can be the same.

During each winter commute on our roadways, I often see the majority of my fellow motorists hopelessly spinning and sliding their way through the various turns and intersections I encounter. In all but the very worst of conditions I don’t seem to have that problem, why is that? This rhetorical question as to why my vehicle doesn’t magically defy the laws of friction is very simple, I’ll sum it up as; “The proper equipment for the proper job.”

In short, my secret is winter tires.

It should some as no surprise, but to many, the simple concept of winter tires is viewed with the stigma of “an additional expense” or “unnecessary”. I know many drivers consider a vehicle as a driving appliance, a simple method of conveyance, and many people want that to cost as little as possible.

However cutting corners when it comes to safety is not something I even like to consider.

This attitude is being adopted across Canada as more and more Provinces are making it mandatory to have winter tires for operation of a motor vehicle during snowy months. I for one, applaud this approach. Before you shout me down, follow my reasoning here:

Why are All-season tires unsuited for severe winter conditions, like those encountered in Canada?

There are a variety of reasons, but the easy ones to explain involve tread design and rubber composition.

Think of the difference between a smooth soled fashion shoe and a rugged hiking boot, which one would you trust to walk down that snowy hill? Fact is, the relatively tight and smooth tread of the All-season tire fills with snow very rapidly, which means you are now trying to stop and turn with the equivalent of a ski, offering little in the area of traction. A snow designed tread is more open and will self-clean while driving, giving the jagged edges of the siped tire a clean bite into snow and ice.

The tire compound is very important too, an All-season tire is designed to give, among other things, good fuel economy and long life. The easy way to do this is by using a “hard” compound of rubber, which will be resistant to wear during the heat of summer months. However during the colder months, the tire will become very hard and will not flex or conform to the road surface as well, in result your tire will slide along like a hockey puck. The snow tire will have a softer compound which would wear out quickly during summer, but during the cold months of winter it remains compliant and offers remarkably improved grip.

That is just a fraction of the theory involved, but moving beyond that lets actually look at the difference in stopping performance.

Stopping Distances Tested at 50km/h (31 MPH)


Test Conditions:
- -20°C with 3 to 5 cm of compacted snow and ice on asphalt surface
- Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission and anti-lock brakes
- Tests in 4-wheel drive vehicle conducted in all-wheel drive mode


*Fournier L., Comparative Evaluation of Performance of All-Season tires and Winter tires, Ministry of Transportation, Quebec, 2002.


As you can see the two of the most popular car types, mini-vans and compacts have the worst stopping distances, about 51 meters compared to larger heavier vehicles at 43 meters. Switching to the common standard unit of measure, a compact car equipped with Winter tires will stop 38 feet shorter than All Season tires, that is over 2.5 car lengths sooner. In a panic stop that is the difference between, before the obstructed intersection, or becoming part of the pile-up.

You’ll also note that 50km/h is not very fast at all, in many cases city roads can be zoned for speeds up to and including 70-80 km/h. Highways often reach posted limits of 110 km/h, as a safe practice you should reduce your driving speed for conditions, however this is not always the habit of some drivers. As such, the importance of winter tires for stopping and car control increases with driving speed.

-But I have ABS/TCS/etc.

While these modern driving aids are a great help, they are a support system for the driver and should not be relied on a substitute for good driving habits and proper equipment. ABS will actually post a longer stopping distance over a properly used non-ABS car, but ABS allows you to steer without locking the wheels. In low-traction conditions the ABS system will only apply as much brake force as it takes not to lock the wheel, with a set of All-Season hockey pucks, imagine how little braking action that takes.

Traction Control typically only assists during acceleration and it applies much like ABS. Most systems still allow some spin, so anything that enhances basic traction will help the TCS work correctly.

About wheel-spin, ever wonder why approaches to intersections are so slippery? It’s mainly a two-fold effect, one part is heat from stationary vehicles melting accumulated ice and snow every so slightly. The second part is the fresh ice/water mix is polished to a glass-like sheen by the All-Season equipped vehicles struggling for grip. This one-two combination is much like the effect of a Zamboni machine at a hockey rink, and the result is the exact same. A good winter tire will help you not contribute to the problem and allow you to better cope with conditions at that next intersection.

Another common thought is that winter tires are very expensive, and much like anything vehicle related, they can be, but not if you shop around. Some of the most inexpensive tires I’ve purchased have been winter tires, when the winter season approaches watch for sales and deep discounts. During a follow-up article I’ll discuss various tire options and buying tip to minimize costs.

When it all comes down to it, your car’s tires only touch the pavement with an area about the size of the palm of your hand, and when it comes down to stopping or turning, how would you like to do it? Like you’re in control, or like you’re riding a crazy carpet?

The choice is obvious for me.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

UPDATE: Looks Good on Paper & Living with a Pontiac

Life with the silver car continues, it’s been nearly two years since the first article, and I thought it was time for a follow-up. Things don’t seem to get better with age when it comes to most cars and this one is no exception.

Minor irritations also continue, first in the way of a failed HVAC control, seems the fan speed controller will only function in settings 3, 4, 5, and OFF. This isn’t a big deal in the winter, since the GTP’s heater struggles to keep the windows frost free on any setting lower than “5”, but in the summer it makes adjustment of the A/C quite bothersome and noisy. Replacement of the resistor is around $50 and an afternoon under the dashboard fiddling with Torx screws. However, if the problem lies in the actual heater controls finding a replacement dual-zone climate control panel could be very expensive.

Also during the summer, we had the passenger side window motor refuse to work. None of the switches wanted to respond until the door was given a good slam, likely the motor has a dead spot or the window track had somehow jammed. As of late it hasn’t happened again.

Something I forgot to mention in the first article was this vehicle’s propensity to digest headlight and driving lamp bulbs. I am reminded of this since I replaced yet another just a week ago. On average since owning this car, we’ve replaced a full set of 4 bulbs every 8 months or so. They don’t all go at once, so you have to keep an eye on them.

Most recently the GTP’s usually reasonable fuel economy has dropped into the pits. Typically, mixed City/Highway driving would return a modest 23-25 US MPG, currently we’re seeing 19-21 US MPG. When doing purely highway travel observing 29-32 MPG was not uncommon, but after a post tune-up 1000 km trip a few weekends ago, the best I could muster was 25 MPG, the engaging the cruise control would drop that number to 23.5.

Around the same time, we noticed the significant drop in fuel economy, the wife also noted a rough idle characteristic at times. It was completely random, but when sitting at a stop light or similar situation, the engine speed would drop to 500-600rpm and shudder or miss. Since the car was running on the factory plugs and wires that were nearing their recommended change interval, I sourced and installed replacements. I had suspected that the symptoms were indicative of a spark related issue. Pulling the plugs seemed to support this as well, 5 out of 6 were burned open to a .070” gap and the number 2 cylinder was fouled with a dry, black soot.

After the tune-up, the fuel economy failed to change at all.

Yesterday the car finally decided to give a peek into the situation when a “Check Engine” light illuminated. I knew this may either indicate our problem or may simply be playing Chicken Little about the gas cap seal, like it traditionally does any time the temperatures get a little chill.

The GTP was taken by the dealership to have the codes pulled and they reported the IAT sensor was out of range. The Intake Air Temperature Sensor being on the fritz could certainly account for terrible economy and drive-ability issues. When the car was brought home, it had set the Check Engine Light again; I yanked the little sensor out from the inlet tract for a look. Visually it appeared fine, and since I didn’t have the specs to bench test the unit, I gave it a few shots of contact cleaner and re-installed it. After a bit of test driving, the problem didn’t go away so I resolved to purchase a new sensor.

Cost on the new sensor was about $30 and I’ll install it later today, hopefully this fixes the issue. I’ll also have a look at the #2 spark plug again to check for fouling, if so I figure one of the coils could be underperforming and needing replacement.

For the record the car has just over 100,000 miles at this time, and I’m continually disappointed with these electrical related failures. On a high note, we plan to retire this car and replace it with a Ford Mustang of some sort in summer of 2011. So far it’s been a pretty silly ride, stay tuned for more updates as they occur.

Read the Entire Living with a Pontiac Series:

Looks Good on Paper:

UPDATE 1 –

UPDATE 2 –

Back in the Grind - Looks Good on Paper & Living with a Pontiac